Producing WhiskyCast has given me the
opportunity to taste some really amazing whiskies!
I resisted rating whiskies or posting tasting notes in the past
because I felt there were others far more qualified to do so, but
I've changed that position on the grounds that it would be selfish
of me to taste these whiskies and not share my thoughts with you.
My scoring system is completely subjective, and I don't pretend that
it's anything else. I score based on my impressions of a whisky's
nose, taste, and finish. I want something discernible in all three
-- in other words, a whisky that noses and tastes well, but has a
flat finish will score less than what I consider a well-balanced
whisky that has all three elements in tune.
I apply the same standards to all varieties of whiskies, be they
single malts, blends, bourbons, Canadians, or from other parts of
the world. After all, when you're looking at the shelves of a bar or
retailer, the whiskies are almost always together anyway and you're
making your selection from the universe based on what you like.
A couple of caveats: because of my original position on scoring
whiskies, I did not generally apply numerical scores to whiskies
until late 2007. Because of that, the whiskies I tasted before then
may not be listed here, since I will not go back and assign scores
retroactively based on old tasting notes. In addition, my notes are
based on whiskies I have either purchased on my own or samples sent
to me by industry sources. In some cases, my ratings are based on
public tastings at whisky festivals. Also, whiskies are listed
alphabetically by distillery.
Finally, please don't take these ratings as anything more than what
they are: the grade of one individual whisky lover. If you want to
use them as a guide, that's fine...but remember that everyone has
his or her own sense of what a great whisky should be, and these
scores are nothing more than my own academic exercise in that
pursuit.
Slainte!
Mark Gillespie
92 AND ABOVE
85-91
70-84
98
Gold Bowmore 1964 (Distillery bottling
at 42.4% ABV, tasted 10/20/2009): This comes from three casks of
the White Bowmore 1964 and one final cask of the Black Bowmore from the
same distillation runs after the Morrison family refurbished the
distillery in 1964. In this case, 1+1=3, as the sum is even better than
the two whiskies that went into it...if that's possible. The nose is
peat and oak-free despite its age, with passion fruit, mango, pineapple,
pomegranate, and peach notes. The taste starts off with a splash of
grapefruit that fades to reveal the passion fruit and mango notes from
the nose. There's a tingly and slightly minty mouthfeel with just a
slight hint of hazelnut. The finish sticks to the tip of the tongue with
a citrusy sweetness, while dry and astringent on the back of the throat.
An amazing and complex dram, and the first I've ever scored a 98!
97
Ardbeg
1975 (Distillery bottling at 43% ABV, tasted 10/27/2009): The nose
is dry and sweet with no obvious signs of peat, but is grassy and
slightly herbal. The smooth taste builds to a peppery climax, then fades
to reveal notes of olives and slightly tart apples. The finish is smooth
and lingering with a kiss of peat. Thanks to WhiskyCast listener David
Fenkell for sharing this amazing dram with me.
Black Bowmore 1964 (bottled in
2007, 40.5% ABV, tasted 2/2008): A classic, full of tropical fruits
in the nose, while maintaining the essence of the warehouse with a touch
of mustiness and understated brininess. This malt explodes in the mouth
with a burst of mangoes before touching the tip of the tongue with a
hint of tartness and finishing with lingering citrus notes. Amazing!
Dalmore 40 (Distillery bottling at 40% ABV, tasted 9/2009):
February 13, 1965 wasn't a Friday the 13th (it was Saturday), and it was
two days before a full moon, but the stars were perfectly aligned over
Scotland that day as the stillmen were making this whisky. The color is
light caramel, and the nose is orange peel, raisins, dates, and a touch
of brown sugar. The taste starts off with a cinnamon kick that fades to
a lingering sweetness with a hint of brandy, along with mango and other
tropical fruits. The finish is long, smooth and complex with a
Chardonnay-like sweetness...the orange peel returns with slight hints of
almonds. This is a classic!
96
Amrut Fusion (Distillery bottling at 50%
ABV, tasted 11/10/2009): This is a blend of 80% unpeated barley and
20% peated barley malts -- just enough to give it a nice smoky nose
without being overpowering. The nose is dry with notes of fresh bread
baking and a touch of almonds. The taste is sweet and syrupy with an
amazingly chewy mouthfeel that develops an intense spiciness that lasts
and lasts, but is still complex enough to show notes of hazelnut
underneath. The finish is slightly smoky with notes of cinnamon and
nutmeg. An amazing whisky!
Balvenie Vintage Cask 1976
(Bottled 3/2008, #146 of 202, 53.8% ABV): This limited-release malt is
pale in color, but not in taste. The nose is slightly nutty and dry,
with a touch of fresh sawdust. The driness extends to the taste, with a
rich, complex spiciness that hints of black pepper and has just a hint
of oak underneath it. A touch of water mutes the impact, but not the
complexity of this spirit, which finishes with a lingering touch of
smokiness that's not peaty, but more like the damp wood chips one would
use in a meat smoker. A perfect dram to sip by the fireplace!
White Bowmore 1964 (bottled in
2008, 42.8% ABV): This one was aged in ex-bourbon casks, while the
Black Bowmore was aged in brown walnut sherry casks. The essence of the
spirit comes through in another explosion of fruit, with mangoes,
pomegranate, and other sweet fruits in the nose, but the ex-bourbon
casks add a touch of vanilla that the Black Bowmore doesn't have. The
nose carries over to the taste, with a light sweetness of ripe fruits
and a touch of figs leading to a crisp, clean finish.
Brora 30 2009 Release (Distillery bottling at 53.2% ABV, tasted
1/2010): Why did Brora have to close? This edition reminds us of
the best Brora had to offer...the nose is rich and woody with notes of
campfire smoke, pepper, butterscotch, and a hint of coconut. The taste
is strong and spicy with an oily and thick mouthfeel. There's just a
touch of oak, lime, and banana to go along with the spices, and the
finish has hints of brine, seaweed, and hazelnuts. An extremely
well-balanced and amazing dram!
Johnnie Walker Blue Label Anniversary Edition (Blended Scotch
bottled at 60% ABV, tasted 11/23/2009): Only 6,000 bottles of this
cask-strength version of Blue Label were released in 2007, and it's one
of the rare cask-strength blends available. The nose is rich and floral
with notes of lavender and rose petals. The taste is intense and spicy,
but still remains smooth and creamy with notes of vanilla and creme
brulee to balance out the chili pepper-like spices.
Knappogue Castle 1951 (Distilled at B. Daly Distillery, bottled by
Castle Brands at 40% ABV, tasted 10/15/2009): This is often cited
as the oldest and rarest Irish whiskey available, with just a few
hundred bottles released each year. It's also the best Irish whiskey
I've ever tasted, with a thick, oily mouthfeel. The nose has hints of
malt, along with bananas, coconut, and molasses cookies. The taste
starts off peppery, but fades smoothly to a honey-like sweetness that
reveals notes of black licorice and molasses. The finish has a hint of
tart green apples and a slight kiss of smoke. This is an amazingly
smooth and well-balanced whiskey!
Macallan 1824 Collection Estate Reserve (Distillery release in 2009
at 45.7% ABV, tasted 9/15/2009): This travel retail exclusive comes
from a mix of sherry and bourbon casks and sherry hogsheads, and it's
dark gold, oily and thick in the glass. The nose is complex and dry,
slighly woody, with notes of cocoa and dark chocolate. The taste is
creamy and smooth with a pleasant spicy kick and a hint of citrus. The
finish is long and spicy. By the way, a small splash of water only makes
this one even better!
Parker's Heritage Collection 2008 (Tasted 9/2008, bottled at 48% ABV
by Heaven Hill): Parker Beam has a magic touch! This is a
27-year-old bourbon that by all rights, should taste like the inside of
a barrel stave. It's anything but, and has the vibrancy and taste of
whiskies half its age. The color is dark bronze, and the nose is silky
and sweet with hints of caramel and vanilla. The taste is amazingly
balanced and smooth...sweet without being too sweet...and dry without
being too dry! The only words I can use to describe the
finish...lingering, cloying, and tantalizing. Buy this one while you
can!
Parker's Heritage Collection 2009 (Tasted 7/30.2009, bottled at 50%
ABV by Heaven Hill): This bourbon celebrates Parker Beam's 50 years
in the distilling business, and he's created another masterpiece!
The color is a rich gold, and the nose (without water) is warm and
woody, with notes of mulling spices, apple pie, vanilla, old leather,
and my grandfather's pipe tobacco. Water reveals a touch of cinnamon and
pumpkin spice. The taste is honey-thick, but spicy and smooth with notes
black pepper and chiles. A touch of water mutes the spiciness and
reveals some notes of honey underneath.
The finish is creamy and smooth with notes of cinnamon, graham crackers,
nutmeg, and a very slight hint of almonds. I didn't think it was
possible to equal last year's Parker's Collection 27-year-old bourbon
(above), but he's done it again!
Tomatin 19 Single Cask (Bottled by Master of Malt at 57.6% ABV,
tasted 12/2009): The nose is malty and fruity with hints of
peaches, pears, and grass. The taste redefines thick...oily with a great
mouthfeel, and malty with a hint of hazelnut. The finish is malty with a
slight hint of oak. This whisky is smooth with a great balance and
intense malt from nose to finish. Very consistent...and excellent!
95
Ardbeg Kildalton (Distillery bottling at 57.6% ABV, tasted
10/27/2009): This classic was distilled in 1980, and the nose has
notes of straw and dried grasses, and is slightly malty and nutty to
boot. The taste is peppery and spicy, then fades slowly to reveal lemon
and orange peel notes, along with a slight note of brown sugar. The
finish is clean, lingering, and dry.
Bowmore 25 (Distillery bottling at 43% ABV, tasted 10/20/2009): The light copper color reveals the influence of first and second-fill
ex-bourbon casks along with Oloroso sherry casks, and the nose has
minimal peat (like most older Bowmores, which tend to lose their peat
and develop tropical fruit flavors). The nose is brown sugar, raisins,
blackberries, and Christmas cake, with a slight hint of orange peel. The
taste starts off smooth, then builds to a black pepper kick that fades
to reveal figs and raisins, with molasses on the tip of the tongue and
spicy on the sides and back of the mouth. The finish is raisins with a
slight red wine-like tartness.
Glendronach 1972 (Tasted 9/2008 at approximately 48% ABV): This
was from a cask sample likely to be bottled by the distillery's new
owners soon, and it's a stunning whisky! Cask #710 is a new sherry butt
filled in 1972, and the malt is a dark amber with a nose of burnt sugar
and plums, with a hint of vanilla and spices. The taste is sweet and
filled with fruit -- dried apples and pears, with just a hint of smoke.
The finish is tart and long with hints of figs and dates.
Glenfiddich 1977 Single Cask (Distillery bottling exclusively for
Willow Park Wines & Spirits at 49.1% ABV, tasted 1/2010): Only 225
bottles of this cask strength bottling were released, and it's a
cracker! The nose is full of caramel candy, figs, and raisins, while the
taste surprises with a peppery spiciness. There's an underlying molasses
sweetness with hints of marmalade and cinnamon. The finish is slightly
spicy with hints of nutmeg and cinnamon.
Jefferson's Presidential Select 17 (Bottled by McLain & Kyne at 47%
ABV, tasted 9/2009): This bourbon comes from some of the final
distilling runs in late 1991 at the legendary Stitzel-Weller Distillery
in Louisville before it was mothballed. The nose is old wood and
varnish, along with tobacco and a hint of vanilla. The taste is spicy,
aromatic, and strong with black pepper and chili powder notes that fade
to sweet vanilla and maple syrup. The finish is dark chocolate syrup and
cinnamon, and it's an amazing bourbon!
Johnnie Walker Gold Label (Blended Scotch bottled at 40%, tasted
2/26/2010): I admit to a bias here...Gold Label has been one of my
favorite malts for years. The nose is creamy with hints of honey and
cinnamon and a subtle touch of pears. The taste is thick and
syrupy-smooth, building to a cinnamon and cilantro spiciness that fades
to let honey and molasses notes have a turn. The finish is lingering
with hints of hazelnut.
Mortlach 1966 (Tasted 9/2008 at 40% ABV, bottled in 1988 for J&S Gordon
& Co.): I have to thank Serge Valentin of the Malt Maniacs over and over
again...he bought me this dram at Harry's New York Bar in Paris, and
it's a dram I'll never forget!. The nose is dark chocolate with walnut
liqueur and hazelnut, along with a hint of vanilla and interestingly,
balsamic vinegar. The taste revealed a wonderful mustiness and old
leather, along with black licorice and a hint of spiciness. My notes
from the evening read "smooth, spicy, and amazing!"
Port Ellen 26 (Distilled in 1982 and bottled by Signatory at 54.1%
ABV, 242 bottles, tasted 12/10/2009): I could smell the peat on
this one from a foot away! The nose also has notes of tar, creosote,
brine, and seaweed with a subtle spiciness. There's a slight honey
sweetness that lasts for a few seconds on the tongue before the peat
kicks in and gives off an intense spiciness and smokiness. The finish is
smoky and lingering. A classic!
Rittenhouse Rye 25 Single Barrel (Tasted 9/1/2009 at 50% ABV,
distilled October 11, 1984 and bottled by Heaven Hill on August 25,
2009): The pre-release sample of this whiskey from Barrel #1 is
amazing, with a nose that reaches out and grabs your nostrils for a good
shake. Cinnamon dominates the nose, with undertones of old leather and
oak. Unlike many older whiskies, the oak is well-behaved on the
tongue...which has highlights of cinnamon, dark chocolate, black pepper,
and dried fruits. The finish literally lasts for minutes on the back of
the throat...I've used the word "lingering" to describe finishes, but
this one is a house guest of a finish.
Sheep Dip 1990 (Blended malt bottled at 40%, tasted 11/22/2009):
This is a rarity, a vatted malt with 19-year-old Dalmore, 21-year-old
Fettercairn, and 25-year-old Ardbeg blended under the supervision of
Richard Paterson and vatted in ex-bourbon barrels for 15 years! It has
the color of a new copper penny, along with a slightly peaty and briny
nose that's balanced well with sweet notes of honey and molasses. The
taste is complex and amazing, starting off with molasses and brown sugar
notes and a subtle cinnamon/black pepper spice that fades to reveal a
lovely smokiness that lingers through the finish. There's no need to add
any water to this classic!
Woodford Reserve Masters Collection Seasoned Oak Finish (Distillery
bottling at 50.2% ABV, tasted 11/9/2009): This bourbon aged normally for
several years before being transferred to casks made from wood that had
spent 3 to 5 years seasoning in the Kentucky climate. That gives this
bourbon a dark cola/coffee color and a nose that's pure spice, with
hints of cinnamon, vanilla, molasses, cloves, dark chocolate, nutmeg and
roasted almonds. The taste is spicy and thick, and explodes with notes
of cloves, allspice, cilantro, black pepper, and rye. It fades slowly to
reveal sweet maple syrup notes underneath. The finish is classic rye,
tart and long. This is what a bourbon should be!
94
Amrut Two Continents (Distillery
bottling at 46%, tasted 11/10/2009): This malt started off the
maturation process in the heat of India, but was then moved to an
undisclosed European location for final maturation. That slowed down the
aging process enough to let this whisky develop an unusual nose. It
takes time to reveal, but shows a dry and clean nose that is slightly
malty with notes of roasted cashews. The taste is mouth-filling, thick
and chewy with notes of black licorice, cinnamon, and cumin. It's
slightly tart with notes of lemon and molasses. The finish is long and
lingering, slightly smoky and nutty.
Ardbeg Double Barrel (Casks
#3524 and 3145, 44.9 and 49.9 ABV respectively): Both bottles get
an identical rating, but for completely different reasons. These two are
like a pair of equally beautiful fraternal twins, each with their own
unique characteristics. For more details, see
my review on the Malt Maniacs site.
Ardbeg Supernova (Distillery bottling at 59.9% ABV, tasted 9/2009):
The working name for this whisky was "A Peat Odyssey", and like Hal's
bad behavior in "2001: A Space Odyssey", the peat is camouflaged at
first. It hides in the nose behind notes of campfire smoke, dried
grasses, tar, and a hint of varnish. The peat starts off mild, and then
explodes on the tongue! It's amazingly well-balanced, though, and as the
peat fades, it reveals malty notes and fresh-baked bread, along with a
hint of brine.
Balvenie Islay Cask (Distillery bottling at 43% ABV, tasted 9/2009):
I waited for years to get a crack at tasting one of the most
sought-after Balvenie expressions. This one started the series of
17-year-old limited edition releases, and malt master David Stewart
picked a set of Islay casks to finish off the expression for an
undisclosed length of time. The Islay influence s amazingly
well-balanced with the Balvenie's traditional smoothness. The nose has
lovely hints of tar and creosote, along with the Balvenie's usual burnt
cream and vanilla notes. Those notes carry through into the taste, and
lead to a smooth and lingering finish. A classic!
Glenlivet 25 (Tasted 8/2008, 43% ABV): The oldest
expression in the Glenlivet range has the dark richness of maple syrup,
thanks to its two years in oloroso sherry casks. The nose is spicy, with
cinnamon and nutmeg standing out with underlying notes of vanilla and
fruits underneath along with a hint of cedar. The cinnamon carries over
to the taste, which also includes dark chocolate and citrus notes,
primarily orange peel leading to a dry, spicy finish. (Featured in
Episode 158)
Glenmorangie Signet (Tasted 9/11/2008, 46% ABV): No age
statement on this one, since it contains some of Dr. Bill Lumsden's
secret whiskies from the Glenmorangie warehouses, including some well
over 30 years old! There's a strong sherry influence on the nose, along
with vintage leather and strong espresso and just a hint of eucalyptus,
mint, and orange peel underneath. Neat, it's an intense, peppery dram
with an entire spice rack of flavors from cinnamon to nutmeg and
hazelnut...and the classic Glenmorangie citrus notes underneath add a
tingly, chewy mouthfeel. A touch of water opens up the dram to reveal
dark chocolate and cocoa powder, with lingering hints of orange and
vanilla that lead to a finish that reminds me of Grandma's peach pie.
(Featured in
Episode 162)
Highland Park 40 (Tasted 5/2008, 43.8% ABV): This whisky
acts like one many years younger...with a vibrant nose of smoky dark
chocolate and subtle hints of seaweed and citrus notes. Tasting it
brings out black pepper and a lingering saltiness with a touch of citrus
and lingering wood smoke that leads to a salty finish with a hint of
lime on the tip of the tongue. (Featured in
Episode 144)
Karuizawa Single Cask #3318 (Tasted 5/2009, bottled at 62.5% ABV):
I have to thank Dave Broom for giving me a chance to taste this Japanese
masterpiece. It was distilled in 1991, and aged in a sherry cask.
However, it doesn't have the usual character of a sherry cask -- the
nose is coal smoke and leather, and the taste is tarry, rich, and spicy
with a smokiness that fades to reveal more traditional dried fruits. The
finish is one of the longest I've ever had...lasted for minutes! An
amazing whisky!
Lagavulin 30 (Distillery bottling in 1976 and
bottled in 2006 at 52.6% ABV, 2,340 bottles, tasted 9/2009): This whisky sold for
around $400 when it hit the market and was snapped up quickly. It may be
available at some retailers, and is well worth the cost. The nose is dry
and dusty, and reminds me of my grandfather's pipe tobacco. It also
reveals notes of old leather, wood stain and varnish, and a slight hint
of peat. The taste builds on dried apricots and apples at the beginning
to a solid smokiness, resinous and thick with a spicy kick on the tongue
at the end. The finish is campfire smoke and pumpkin pie. Outstanding!
Lagavulin Distiller's Edition 2009 (Distillery bottling at 43% ABV,
tasted 11/21/2009): The 2009 Distiller's Edition was distilled in
1993, and had a second maturation in Pedro Ximenez sherry casks that
gave it a dark, rich copper color. The nose is smoky and spicy, with
nutmeg, cinnamon, and pumpkin pie notes. The taste is smoky and peppery,
but well-balanced as the pepper fades to reveal sherry cask-influenced
raisin and fig notes, along with a slight taste of red wine. The finish
is thick and sweet with minimal smokiness.
Macallan 1824 Collection Whisky Maker's Edition (Distillery release
in 2009, bottled at 42.8% ABV, tasted on 9/15/2009): Bob Dalgarno
created this travel retail exclusive from barley grown at the Easter
Elchies estate where Macallan is located, and aged it in a combination
of sherry and bourbon casks. The color is dark amber, and the nose has
classic Macallan notes of dried figs and raisins, Heath Bar (toffee),
and a hint of orange peel. The taste surprises with a spicy curry-like
kick that builds in the mouth, yet maintains an underlying syrupy
sweetness on the sides and back of the tongue. The finish is dry and
sweet.
Nikka Taketsuru 21 Pure Malt (Distillery bottling at 43% ABV, tasted
1/23/2010): The nose on this Japanese classic is light and clean
with a hint of grass. The taste is complex with notes of cinnamon,
vanilla, dark chocolate, and a touch of salt. The finish is sweet and
long with a bit of fruitiness.
Speyside's Finest 43 (Bottled by Douglas Laing from an undisclosed
distillery at 50% ABV, tasted 1/24/2009): I've always been partial
to single malts from a certain distillery located near Aberlour, just
off the A95 in Speyside. In this case, the distillery cannot be named,
but it's produced a malt that would do its owners proud! The nose is
slightly heathery with a touch of dried grass and a slight hint of peat.
It's spicy with notes of cinnamon that fade to an oaky smoothness with a
hint of lemon. The finish is dry and sweet, with a touch of dried fruits
and a nice warmness.
Springbank 1965 30YO (Bottled by Lombard at 46% ABV, tasted
11/10/2009):
This is a classic Springbank…the nose is slightly malty with notes of
nutmeg, hazelnut, and most importantly in a whisky of this age, no overt
signs of oakiness. The taste is creamy and thick, with a light touch of
spices and nuts. The finish is warm and inviting with hints of almonds
and spices.
Strathisla-Glenlivet 1964 (Bottled in 2006 at 43% ABV by Gordon &
MacPhail, tasted 9/2008): This malt spent 42 years in a first-fill sherry cask,
and has the color of a copper penny. The nose is fresh and floral, with
heather and grassy notes as well as figs, raisins, and apricots. The
fruits come out in the taste, and water just explodes the sweetness and
vibrancy of this malt. The finish reminds me of peach pie with a graham
cracker crust.
William Larue Weller 2009 (Distilled at Buffalo Trace in 1998,
bottled at 67.4% ABV, tasted 9/2009): This is from the 2009 Buffalo
Trace Antique Collection, distilled with a wheat mashbill and bottled
uncut and unfiltered. It's dark, thick, and oily with a powerful nose.
The expected alcohol burn shows up after a second or two, time enough to
reveal a nuttiness with hazelnut notes. The taste is thick and chewy
with a great mouthfeel and notes of caramel candy, Heath Bar (toffee),
cinnamon, and hazelnut. Vanilla and cinnamon notes dominate the very
smooth finish.
93
Aberlour A'Bunadh Batch 23 (Distillery
bottling at 60.2% ABV, tasted 1/23/2010): The traditional Aberlour
nose, dry and sweet with a spicy hint of cinnamon. The taste continues
with cinnamon notes, along with a sweet touch of maple syrup, figs, and
molasses...this one is full of flavor! The finish is dry and sweet.
Aberlour 18 (Scott's Selection
bottling, distilled in 1989, tasted 3/5/2009, ABV not recorded): Aberlour's distillery bottlings are usually matured in sherry casks, but
this one comes from an ex-bourbon cask and shows a completely different
side of Aberlour's character. The nose is rich with cinnamon and nutmeg,
and reminds me of Christmas time. The taste is again rich with cinnamon,
along with a touch of pepper...and even more amazing, a slight
brininess. A touch of water opens up an explosion of flavors, and the
finish has a slight kiss of salt. Outstanding variation on one of my
favorite whiskies.
Ar2 (Elements of Islay Series from The Whisky Exchange, bottled at
60.5% ABV, tasted at 58.8% ABV 1/2010): This comes from an Ardbeg
cask, and the nose is citrusy and tropical with notes of orange peel,
lemon zest, and just a touch of smokiness. The taste is ashy and smoky
with intense pepperiness. Water brings out citrus notes and smoothes out
the spice. The finish is smoky and lingering with a hint of lemon zest.
Auchentoshan 21 (Distillery bottling at
43% ABV, tasted
10/2008): This limited-edition malt comes primarily
from refill bourbon casks with some sherry casks, and has the color of
18-carat gold. The nose is figs, honey, and blueberries, with just a
hint of vanilla, but it doesn't give a hint of what's to come. The taste
is intense and minty, with a touch of apples and pears that leads to a
long and tingly finish that reminds me of cookie dough baking in the
oven. An outstanding dram!
Booker's (Distillery bottling at 62.45% ABV, tasted 11/27/2009):
This is bourbon the way Booker Noe liked it...uncut, unfiltered, and as
close to straight from the barrel as possible. It's a dark cola color,
and the nose has hints of maple syrup, molasses, vanilla, oak, and
leather...and no alcohol burn! The taste is intense and spicy with notes
of jalapeno peppers, but sweet underneath with hints of caramel candy
and molasses. The finish is a long-lasting mix of peppery spice and
syrupy sweetness, A classic bourbon!
Bowmore Darkest 15 (Distillery bottling at 43% ABV, tasted
10/20/2009): Like the Bowmore 12, this single malt reflects the
stricter wood policy imposed at Morrison Bowmore several years ago. This
is essentially the 12-year-old malt, but with an additional three years
of maturation in Oloroso sherry casks. That gives it a color of copper
coins, and the nose is peaty and sweet with notes of brown sugar, figs,
hazelnut, and a slight maltiness. The taste is spicy with black pepper
notes that fade to a sweet maple syrup with hints of orange peel. The
finish is comforting and warm with notes of figs, raisins, and brown
sugar.
Brora 24 (Signatory bottling distilled in 1981, bottled at 60.1%
ABV): I tasted this at a John Hansell tasting in February of 2007.
The nose was light and clean, with a nice brininess and touches of sea
breeze and olives. The taste was brisk and sharp, with a spicy kick that
balanced perfectly with the wood and led to a slightly peaty and
lingering smoky finish.
Dalwhinnie Distiller's Edition 2009 (Distillery bottling at 43% ABV,
tasted 1/2010): This year's edition was distilled in 1991 and
finished in an Oloroso sherry cask. The nose is light and grassy with
hints of peat and cinnamon. The taste is smooth with subtle spices,
malty with a touch of green grapes, and the finish has notes of vanilla
and chardonnay with a touch of oak.
George T. Stagg 2009 (Distilled at Buffalo Trace in 1992, bottled at
70.7% ABV, tasted 9/2009): The flagship of the Buffalo Trace
Antique Collection. This year's edition has a nose of oak, vanilla, and
cinnamon, and the taste starts off intense, but fades slowly to reveal
molasses, maple syrup, and cinnamon notes. The finish is sweet and
slighly tangy like a great barbecue sauce.
Gibson's Finest Rare 18 (Distillery bottling at 40% ABV, tasted
3/2010): The nose on this Canadian classic is light and aromatic
with notes of fresh bread and brown sugar. The taste is smooth with
hints of orange peel and other tree fruits, along with a hint of brown
sugar. The finish is light, but long.
Glen Grant 16 (Distillery bottling at 40% ABV, tasted 11/21/2009):
The nose is dry and floral with a hint of spices. The taste is sweeter
and more intense than the 10-year-old Glen Grant, with notes of black
pepper, blackberries, and a hint of brown sugar. The finish is warm and
sweet with a hint of maple syrup.
Glen Grant 1972 (Berry Bros. & Rudd bottling of Cask #744/9 in 2006
at 51.8% ABV, tasted 11/7/2009): I love older Glen Grants, and this
one is no exception. The nose is honey, caramel candy and molasses with
a hint of brown sugar. The taste starts off with a kiss of honey, then
the spicy black pepper notes take over. That fades to reveal tea with
honey and lemon zest. The lemon continues on the slightly tart and
lingering finish.
Glen Grant 31 (Douglas Laing bottling at 58.6% ABV, tasted
1/24/2009): This was aged in a sherry cask, and has the requisite
dark caramel color that comes with spending that long in a sherry cask.
The nose is of dried fruits, especially figs and plums, along with a
touch of spice and oak. The taste is intense and spicy with hints of
cilantro that masks a subtle sweet undertone, and the finish hits the
top of the tongue and lasts forever!
Glenrothes 30 (Gordon & MacPhail 2009 bottling at 43% ABV, tasted
11/20/2009): The nose is hazelnut and figs, raisins, honey and
Christmas spices. The taste is thick and chewy, peppery but honey-sweet
as well with a tart touch of lemon zest and a hint of mint. The finish
is warming and sweet with a slight tartness.
Highland Park Earl Magnus I (Distillery bottling at 52.6% ABV,
tasted 1/2010): This 15-year-old bottling honors an Orkney ruler of
long ago, and does Earl Magnus proud. The nose is cedar chips, lemon
furniture polish, a hint of cinnamon and ginger. The taste is slightly
smoky with notes of vanilla, lemon, and ginger, and the finish has a
lemony tartness with a touch of cinnamon.
Jameson Rarest Vintage Reserve (Distillery bottling at 46% ABV,
tasted 3/2010): The nose is spicy with hints of licorice and
cinnamon, along with a touch of banana, coconut, and plums. The taste is
full of flavor, with cinnamon and red wine notes (reflecting the port
pipes used in maturation), as well as a subtle fruitiness with notes of
orange peel and cocoa. The finish is long and sweet with hints of
molasses and a slight maltiness.
Johnnie Walker Blue Label King George V Edition (Blended Scotch
bottled at 43% ABV, tasted 11/23/2009): This whisky was blended
from malts produced at distilleries open during the reign of King George
V from 1910-1936, including a healthy measure of Port Ellen. The nose is
peatier and spicer than the regular Blue Label, but also has notes of
vanilla cream. The taste is smoky yet creamy, with classic Islay notes
of tar and creosote balancing out vanilla and a bit of lemon zest. The
finish is smoky and long.
Longmorn 1967 (Mackillop's Choice bottling in 2003 at 43% ABV,
tasted 9/10/2009): This whisky spent 36 years in the cask, and its'
dark amber color reflects that. The nose is malty and herbal with notes
of rosemary and thyme, dried grasses and straw, along with fresh-baked
bread and a slight yeasty aroma. The maltiness continues in the taste,
along with a sharp spiciness of black pepper and chili powder on the
front of the tongue. There's a hint of dried citrus, perhaps pineapple
as well. The finish is smooth and crisp.
Nikka Single Coffey Malt 12 (Tasted 9/2008, bottled at 55% ABV for
La Maison du Whisky): Anyone who claims Coffey stills can't produce
a malt whisky with any flavor needs to try this one! The nose is spicy
and dry, with notes of dried leaves, fresh cut grass, and herbal notes
of basil, thyme, and rosemary. The taste is floral and spicy, with hints
of cilantro and black pepper that lead to a long, citrusy finish
dominated by lime and lemon.
North of Scotland 43 (Scott's Selection bottling, distilled in 1964,
43% ABV, tasted 3/2009): If you've ever doubted whether a grain whisky can be
special on its own, this one will end your doubts! It was aged in a Port
cask, and the nose is subtle and dry with light wine notes, not
overpowering at all, and even has a slight maltiness to it. The taste is
spicy and inviting, with a slight nuttiness as well, and the port notes
are nicely-balanced and not overpowering. The finish is where it gets
its high marks. I've never had a whisky where the finish kept building
even after I swallowed it! This whisky redefines the term "lingering
finish."
Springbank 18 (Distillery bottling, tasted 5/2009, bottled at 46%
ABV): This single malt is a mix of 80% sherry casks and 20% bourbon
casks, and that mix is reflected in the nose. Licorice, honey and dried
fruits dominate the nose, but the taste reveals a good balance of fruits
and nuts, especially almonds and hazelnuts. The finish lingers with a
kiss of smoke and dark chocolate.
Tomatin 25 (Distillery bottling at 43% ABV, tasted 12/2009): The
nose is woody and resinous, with notes of peaches and citrus. The taste
is dry and nutty, with almonds and cashews fading to reveal hints of
honey and lemon that linger into the otherwise dry finish.
92
Aberlour 16 (Distillery
bottling at 43% ABV, tasted 1/23/2010): This double-matured malt
(oak and sherry casks) has a sweet nose with syrupy notes, a touch of
grapes, and honey. The taste is dry, honey-sweet, with a touch of banana
and a lemony tartness. The finish is dry and sweet with an almond
nuttiness.
Ardbeg Corryvreckan (Distillery
bottling at 57.1% ABV, tasted 9/2009): This is the worldwide
release of Corryvreckan, which was released in 2008 as an Ardbeg
Committee bottling. The usual Ardbeg peatiness is smooth and balanced on
the nose, with notes of damp wood and brine. The taste is spicy, with a
mix of smoke and jalapeno peppers that fades into a smooth maltiness,
The finish doesn't just linger...it moves in and stays for a while like
a house guest! Outstanding!
Ardbeg Rollercoaster (Distillery
bottling at 57.3% ABV, tasted 3/2010): This bottling celebrates the
10th anniversary of the Ardbeg Committee, and there's plenty to
celebrate here. The nose is vibrant and aromatic, reflecting the younger
whiskies in the mix, with nice peaty notes and hints of sea spray and
smoked salmon. The taste is tingly and peppery with a great mouthfeel,
fading to a good balance of brininess and peat. This is one dram that
benefits from a splash of water...it lengthens out the taste and adds to
the finish. Without water, the finish is short and peaty, but with
water, it lingers with a muted smokiness.
Arran 12 (Bottled by Master of Malt at
55% ABV, tasted 12/2009 from sample at 40% ABV): The nose is sea
breeze and brine with smoked salmon notes. The taste is thick and chewy,
slightly smoky with notes of brine and lemony tartness. The finish has
hints of citrus, hazelnut, and dark chocolate.
Auchentoshan 50 (Cask #479,
distilled in 1957 and bottled in 2008 at 44% ABV): This single malt
spent 50 years in an Oloroso sherry cask, yet it is paler than most
Oloroso-aged whiskies. The nose is very delicate, with a light sweetness
that hints of green tea, peppermint, and lavender. The taste is
reminiscent of the White Bowmore, with tropical fruits (mango, coconut,
and banana), along with creme brulee and vanilla, and it winds up with a
creamy finish of coconut, vanilla, figs, and a sweet hint of maple
syrup.
Baker's (Distillery bottling at 53.5% ABV, tasted 12/2009):
Baker Beam's preferred bourbon recipe, with a dry and clean nose that
shows hints of vanilla, almonds, and pears with subtle caramel notes.
The taste is spicy and warm with molasses, vanilla, and caramel. The
finish has a touch of vanilla, fudge, and caramel.
Balmenach 1979 (Single cask bottling by Berry Bros. & Rudd at 56.3%
ABV, tasted 3/2010): The nose is lightly spiced with notes of pears
and peaches. The taste starts off with an intense pepperiness that fades
slowly to reveal notes of honey and black tea. The finish is lingering
with a good balance of pepper and honey. The balance and consistency is
excellent.
Balvenie Rose 16 (Distillery bottling at 53.4% ABV, tasted 8/2009):
This expression is only available at the distillery, and spent 4 weeks
finishing in port pipes before bottling at cask strength. That gives it
a rosy pink color, but the nose remains nutty and oaky with hints of
toffee. The nuttiness continues on the taste, with hazelnut and walnut
notes as well as vanilla and dried flowers. Adding a splash of water
brings out more fruit, but it's very drinkable at cask strength.
Caperdonich 1972 (Bottled in 2008 at 49.9% ABV by Gordon & MacPhail
for La Maison du Whisky): A first-fill sherry butt gives this malt
the color of 10W30 motor oil. The nose is old oak and dark chocolate,
with cinnamon and nutmeg, and the taste is intense and fiery. Chili
peppers draw down to reveal notes of dried fruits with a creamy
smoothness. The finish has a caramel candy sweetness to it that left me
wanting more.
Evan Williams 2000 Single Barrel (Distillery bottling at 43.3% ABV,
Bottle #26, tasted 10/28/2009): This is the 15th in the Evan
Williams Single Barrel series of vintage bourbons. The nose is classic
cinnamon, vanilla, and oak...spicy and dry. The taste is caramel-sweet
at first, followed by an intense pepperiness that fades to brown sugar
and maple syrup notes with a bit of cinnamon. The cinnamon notes linger
through the finish with a touch of vanilla and a hint of oak.
GlenDronach 1989 (Distillery bottling at 19 years for Park Avenue
Liquor Shop at 58.7% ABV, tasted 12/12/2009): The nose on this
single-cask bottling is allspice and pepper, along with subtle hints of
figs, raisins, and toffee. The taste is peppery with a slight burn and
notes of vanilla, oak, molasses, and dark chocolate. The finish is spicy
and lingering.
Glenlivet 21 (Distillery bottling at 43% ABV, tasted 1/23/2010):
The nose is sweet and dry with hints of dried fruits. The taste is
smooth and spicy with a great mouthfeel and notes of allspice and dried
orange peel. The finish is dry and tingling with a lingering kiss of
sweetness.
Johnnie Walker Black Label (Blended Scotch bottled at 40%, tasted
2/26/2010): One of the world's most popular malts, and for good
reason. I liken blends to an orchestra where the musicians are playing
as one, and that's what Black Label does. The nose is smooth with hints
of smoke, a touch of oak and dried grass, but not enough of any to throw
the balance off. The taste is complex and amazingly smooth with a clear
smokiness, but also showing subtle hints of fruits and a slight
tartness. The finish is creamy, long, and smooth.
Johnnie Walker Blue Label (Blended Scotch bottled at 40%, tasted
11/23/2009): The nose is spicy and aromatic, with notes of rose
petals, old leather, and tobacco. The taste is thick and spicy, and the
black pepper notes fade to a honeyed sweetness with a slight citrusy
tartness. The finish fades quickly.
Invergordon 1971 (Bottled in 2009 at 48% ABV by
Berry Bros. & Rudd, tasted 8/2009): Single grain whiskies don't get enough respect
in my opinion, but this one deserves plenty of respect! It's a light
gold, oily and thick in the glass, with notes of coconut and banana on
the nose. The taste is surprisingly spicy, with a peppery kick that
fades to reveal the fruity notes from the nose. The finish is light and
tropical-fruit sweet.
Laphroaig 18 (Distilled in 1990 and bottled by A. Dewar Rattray at
55% ABV, tasted 1/24/2009): Just 210 bottles were produced
exclusively for the Alberta market from a first-fill bourbon cask. The
nose -- surprisingly -- has no peat to it! It's light and fruity with an
overwhelming sweetness and light herbal notes underneath. The taste
starts off slightly sweet...then the peat kicks in with classic
Laphroaig notes of creosote, tar, and seaweed. The finish lasts and
lasts!
Laphroaig 18 (Distillery bottling at 48% ABV, tasted 12/5/2009):
This replaces the 15-year-old Laphroaig, and the extra three years have
rounded off some of the rougher edges. The nose has a slightly milder
peat influence than other Laphroaigs, and there's a toffee-like
sweetness to balance out seaweed and brine notes, along with a subtle
touch of almonds and hazelnut. The taste is thick and sweet at first,
with the peat taking a few seconds to develop to an intense spiciness
that fades to reveal notes of dried apricots, pears, and a bit of apple.
The finish is smoky on the back of the throat and sweet on the tongue.
Laphroaig 40 (Distillery bottling at 42.4% ABV, tasted 10/27/2009):
The nose on this cask-strength Laphroaig is clean and smooth with a
light aroma of peat. The taste is dry, smooth, and slightly peaty with
hints of pepper, brine, and a hint of lemon. The finish is clean, crisp,
and dry.
Macallan 1824 Collection Select Oak (Distillery bottling in 2009 at
40% ABV, tasted 9/15/2009): This travel retail release is made up
of malts aged in 3 different cask types, and leans heavily to first-fill
sherry casks. The nose is butterscotch candies, vanilla, and raisins,
and the butterscotch notes carry over to the taste. There's also a spicy
touch of marsala powder and a slight touch of citrus. The finish is
slightly aromatic and dry with notes of brown sugar and caramel candy.
Master of Malt 30-Year-Old Speyside (Bottled by Master of Malt from
an undisclosed distillery at 40%, tasted 12/2009): The distillery
is not disclosed, but the dark color and sherry influence may give us a
clue. The nose has a heavy sherry influence with hints of honey, oak,
and hazelnut. The taste is chewy and thick with notes of honey, figs,
cocoa, and nutmeg. The finish is smooth with notes of butterscotch, dry
sherry, and black tea.
Sazerac Rye 18 2009 (Distilled at Buffalo Trace, bottled at 45% ABV, tasted 9/2009):
Another whiskey in the 2009 Buffalo Trace Antique Collection series,
this has a great rye bread aroma on the nose and a hint of old leather.
The taste is tart and aromatic, slightly herbal, with notes of molasses
and oak. Water makes it even smoother, and the finish is spicy and
lingering.
Springbank 1996 (Distillery bottling at 56.4% ABV exclusively for
Kensington Wine Market, tasted 1/23/2009): This single cask
bottling came from a Manzanilla sherry cask aged for 17 years. It's
found only in Calgary, and has a strong, intense nose with notes of
maple syrup, figs, and oak, with a slight hint of lemon. The taste is
equally intense and spicy, with almond notes and black pepper that fade
to a sweet finish that lingers with an aroma that curls up the back of
the throat.
Tamnavulin 16 Single Cask (Bottled by Master of Malt at 55.1% ABV,
tasted 12/2009): The nose is woody with notes of vanilla, old
leather, and honey. The taste is malty with notes of figs and honey and
a slightly spicy kick of pepper. The finish has notes of honey and Heath
Bar (toffee). Overall, a very smooth and balanced whisky.
Wild Turkey American Spirit 15YO (Distillery bottling at 50.5% ABV,
tasted 3/5/2009): Jimmy Russell's not a big fan of older bourbons, and
this is as far as he'll take Wild Turkey. The nose is light with subtle
oak and vanilla notes. The taste is honey-sweet witha kick of
black pepper, smooth with no over-oakiness, but woody like a warm
campfire. The finish is tart and lingering with a slight sweetness.
William Heavenhill Limited Edition (Tasted 9/2008, bottled at 63.8%
ABV by Heaven Hill): Only 225 bottles were made of this
barrel-proof bourbon honoring the farmer who gave his name to the site
where Heaven Hill sits today, and it sells for $500 at the Heaven Hill
visitors center. It's oily and thick, with a dark coppery color. The
nose is old oak and leather, with vanilla and caramel notes for good
measure. Tasting it reveals honey and caramel sweetness with a kick of
pepper and an interesting touch of toasted rye bread, but adding water
brings out even more sweetness with a minty flavor. The finish is rich
ganache, chocolate, and nuts.