
Producing WhiskyCast has given me the
opportunity to taste some really amazing whiskies!
I resisted rating whiskies or posting tasting notes in the past because I felt
there were others far more qualified to do so, but I've changed that
position on the grounds that it would be selfish of me to taste
these whiskies and not share my thoughts with you.
My scoring system is completely subjective, and I don't pretend that
it's anything else. I score based on my impressions of a whisky's
nose, taste, and finish. I want something discernible in all three
-- in other words, a whisky that noses and tastes well, but has a
flat finish will score less than what I consider a well-balanced
whisky that has all three elements in tune.
I apply the same standards to all varieties of whiskies, be they
single malts, blends, bourbons, Canadians, or from other parts of
the world. After all, when you're looking at the shelves of a bar or
retailer, the whiskies are almost always together anyway and you're
making your selection from the universe based on what you
like.
A couple of caveats: because of my original position on scoring
whiskies, I did not generally apply numerical scores to whiskies
until late 2007. Because of that, the whiskies I tasted before then
may not be listed here, since I will not go back and assign scores
retroactively based on old tasting notes. In addition, my notes are
based on whiskies I have either purchased on my own or samples sent
to me by industry sources. In some cases, my ratings are
based on public tastings at whisky festivals. Also, whiskies are
listed alphabetically by distillery.
Finally, please don't take these ratings as anything more than what
they are: the grade of one individual whisky lover. If you want to
use them as a guide, that's fine...but remember that everyone has
his or her own sense of what a great whisky should be, and these
scores are nothing more than my own academic exercise in that
pursuit. There is no way to fairly compare scores and notes from
different whisky critics, since each of us has our own unique
sensory memories and scoring methods.
If you'd like a more portable version of these notes, they're
available in the WhiskyCast iPhone app (sponsored by
The
Glenrothes) and will be available soon in WhiskyCast
for Android phone users (sponsored by
Benromach).
Finally, I reserve the right to go back and re-taste whiskies again
at a later date and adjust scores if warranted.
Slainte!
Mark Gillespie
92 AND ABOVE
85-91
70-84
84
Arran 13 (Bottled by Loch Chaim at 43%
ABV, tasted 10/2010): This is a kosher Arran aged exclusively in
ex-bourbon casks, and the nose is vanilla, oak, and dark chocolate. The
taste is cinnamon, pears, nutmeg, and a hint of brown sugar. The finish
is long and peppery with a hint of vanilla.
Bowmore 2009 Feis Ile Limited Edition
(Distillery bottling at 57.1% ABV, tasted 7/2010):
This 8-year-old Bowmore was finished in Limousin Oak barrels, and the
warm nose reflects some red wine heritage, along with almonds and a
touch of peat. The taste is full of cinnamon, smoke, and hints of oak
and brine. The finish is lingering with notes of brine and peat. A
little young.
Dry Fly Wheat Whiskey (Distillery bottling at 40% ABV, tasted
6/2011): This whiskey is made in Washington State, and the nose is
warming with touches of caramel syrup, dark chocolate, cinnamon,
allspice, and nutmeg. The taste has a good, thick mouthfeel and a
cinnamon spiciness that builds nicely but doesn't overpower the notes of
oak, caramel, and a slight pepperiness. The finish is dry with touches
of oak and peppercorns.
Early Times Kentucky Whiskey (Distillery bottling at 40% ABV, tasted
5/2011): This is not a bourbon, since it's aged in refill bourbon
barrels. That gives it a soft oakiness on the nose, along with allspice
and a touch of molasses. The taste is spicy and smooth with a caramel
sweetness underneath and a touch of spearmint. The finish is soft and
short with touches of cinnamon and caramel.
George
Washington's Rye (Distillery bottling at 43% ABV, tasted 7/2010):
If you ever get a chance to taste this, go for it just for the
historical significance. Unaged rye spirit from the restored distillery
at George Washington's Mount Vernon estate in Virginia, this was
produced by hand using Washington's original recipe. The spirit is
clear, with a nose that is clean, light, and fruity with hints of pears.
The taste is sharp and tart with lemon and pear notes, while the rye
influence is barely noticeable. The finish is tart and clean.
Glann ar Mor Kornog "Taouarc'h
Kenton/First Peated One" (Distillery bottling at 57.1% ABV, tasted
2/2010): Just 244 bottles of this peated French single malt from
the Brittany coast were produced, and even though it's just three years
and four months old, it compares well to many young Islay malts. The
nose is full of peat, with tar and heathery notes. The taste starts off
peaty and peppery, then fades slowly to reveal notes of maple syrup The
finish is lingering, and this malt holds up well with a splash of water.
Glenfarclas 10 (Distillery bottling at 40% ABV, tasted 4/2010):
The nose is sherried with subtle spices, apricots and dried figs. The
taste hits the top of the mouth and tip of the tongue with a cinnamon
prickliness and a good mouthfeel, notes of toffee, caramel, vanilla, and
burnt sugar. The finish is long and spicy with cinnamon notes that hit
the back of the throat.
Glen Grant 1955 (Bottled in 2008 by
Gordon & MacPhail for La Maison du Whisky at 50% ABV, tasted 11/2008):
The nose is sweet with dried figs and raisins, a touch of hazelnut, and
a kiss of cinnamon. The taste is sherried sweetness with a touch of tart
citrus flavors. A nice balance that leads to a toffee and caramel candy
finish with just a hint of saltiness. Complex and interesting.
Glenrothes Alba Reserve
(Distillery bottling at 40% ABV, tasted
5/2009): This is a rarity from The Glenrothes: a kosher expression aged
in first-fill American Oak casks and certified as meeting Jewish dietary
laws. (Sherry cask-aged whiskies, which make up the entire Glenrothes
range, do not meet those standards). The nose is green apples and
fruity, with notes of honey and brown sugar. The taste is tart and
well-balanced, with notes of fresh wood and chili peppers. The finish is
spicy, lingering, and long. If you've ever wondered how The Glenrothes
would taste in a bourbon cask expression, seek out this one.
Jim Beam Devil's Cut (Distillery bottling at 45% ABV, tasted 4/2011):
You've heard of the "angel's share", but the "devil's cut" refers to
whiskey that remains soaked in the wood after a cask has been emptied.
Jim Beam uses steam and hot water to extract the "devil's cut" from the
wood, then uses it to reduce the proof down to 45% instead of plain
water. This gives off a rich and spicy nose with notes of caramel, oak,
and black pepper. The taste is more tannic than usual, too, with notes
of molasses, a slowly-building cinnamon spiciness, and a touch of
vinegar-based barbecue sauce that lingers well into the finish.
Kavalan Single Malt (Distillery bottling at 40% ABV, tasted 4/2010):
This is the first expression from Taiwan's King Car Distillery, and it
shows promise for the future. The nose is clean with hints of tropical
fruits, floral notes, vanilla, and honey. The taste has a spicy start
that fades to show notes of mango and papaya that linger on the tongue.
The finish is sweet, but too short -- the only area where this malt
could be better.
Michael Collins 10 Single Malt (Distilled at Cooley for Sidney Frank
Importing and bottled at 40% ABV, tasted 1/2011): This is the
second-generation Michael Collins single malt, and is the first to carry
an age statement. The nose is nutty and clean, with almonds, straw,
vanilla, and cocoa. The taste has a spicy buildup of black pepper, but
is muted by vanilla, peaches, and pears with a hint of caramel candy.
The caramel candy note carries into the relatively short finish with a
touch of brown sugar.
Nant Unpeated (Distillery bottling at 43% ABV, tasted 9/2010):
This Australian single malt has a light and clean nose with hints of
honey, vanilla, and light oak. The taste is rich and mouth-filling, with
honey, light spices, allspice, oak, and licorice. The licorice note
carries into the finish with a hint of citrus underneath.
Nikka Miyagikyo 1991 Single Cask (Distillery bottling at 62% ABV,
tasted 9/2010): The nose is coconut cream pie, marzipan, vanilla
wafers, raspberries, and red grapes. The taste is dry, intense, and
sharp with red wine tartness, a hint of berries, and coconut that shows
through as the tartness fades. Water opens up peach and other tree
fruits, and makes this dram less one-dimensional. The finish is slow,
tart, dry, and knife-sharp.
Spey Reserve 12 (Bottled by Harvie's of Edinburgh from an
undisclosed distillery at 40% ABV, tasted 8/2011): This Speyside
malt is mainly available in Asia, and the nose has notes of smoke and
cinnamon with honey underneath and a touch of roasted almonds. The taste
starts off spicy with cinnamon and nutmeg notes at first, but fades
quickly to reveal a good balance of honey and citrusy tartness
underneath. The finish is lingering and soft with touches of nutmeg and
honey.
Springbank 1996 Single Cask (Distillery bottling for Kensington Wine
Market at 55.8% ABV, tasted 8/2010): The nose has notes of dried
fruits, oak, a hint of peat, and is slightly citrusy. The taste is tart
and spicy with citrus and cinnamon notes, a bit of smoke, ashy, and
slightly bitter. The finish is long, smoky, and oaky.
Stranahan's Colorado Whiskey (Distillery bottling at 47% ABV, tasted
8/2010): This whisky comes from casks between two and five years of
age, and a combination of altitude and climate help them age more
rapidly than whiskies made closer to sea level. The nose is spicy, oaky,
and intense with notes of apricots, vanilla, and a subtle touch of
molasses. The taste has a peppery bite on the tip of the tongue, good
malty notes, and a finish of caramel, cola, and brown sugar.
Tomintoul 16 (Distillery bottling at 40% ABV, tasted 8/2010):
The nose on this Highlander is sherried and sweet with orange peel and a
bit of nuttiness. The taste is softly spiced with dried fruits and
orange peel, and the finish is short, soft, and warming.
Wemyss "Smoke Bluff" 12 YO Single Cask (Bottled by Wemyss from
undisclosed distillery at 46% ABV, tasted 3/1/2010): This Islay
single malt spent 12 years in a refill bourbon cask, and the nose is
classic Islay with notes of tar, creosote, dried leaves, and a slight
nuttiness. The taste is thick, oily, and peppery with cinnamon notes and
an understated peat that develops slowly. The finish is soft and smoky.
Wemyss "Smooth Gentleman" 8 YO (Blended malt bottled by Wemyss Malts
at 40% ABV, tasted 4/2011): The nose is dark chocolate, roasted
almonds, and dried orange peel. The taste is rich and tart with blood
oranges and hints of lemon and chocolate. The finish is tart and
medium-length with a hint of heather.
83
Balvenie Madeira Cask (Distillery
bottling at 43%, tasted 9/2009): This is the 2009 release in The
Balvenie's series of 17-year-old limited edition malts. The nose is
light and dry with notes of orange peel and lemon, and the taste is
thick and sweet with a large dose of maple syrup and a touch of cinnamon
to balance things out. The nose fades too quickly for me.
Bruichladdich 18 Kosher Wine Cask (Distillery bottling at 46% ABV,
tasted 1/2011): Strictly, this is not a kosher whisky, since the
distillery hasn't received Kosher certification. This expression started
out in bourbon casks before being re-racked into Kosher wine casks from
Israel's Carmel Winery. The nose is light with notes of vanilla, red
grapes, green apples, peaches, and nectar. The taste has peaches
balanced with a green apple tartness, along with vanilla and brown sugar
that come out as the tartness fades. The finish is slightly tart, but
fades too quickly. An interesting experiment.
Caol Ila 28 1981 Vintage (Bottled by Gordon & MacPhail at 46% ABV,
tasted 11/2010): This was distilled in 1981 and matured in a refill
hogshead. The nose is peaty and phenolic with oak, vanilla, and cocoa
notes. The taste is smoky with charred oak, honey, vanilla, and dark
chocolate, and the finish is long and smoky with a touch of honey.
English Whisky Company "Chapter 6" (Distillery bottling at 46% ABV,
tasted 1/2010): This is one of the first official single malt
whisky releases from England's first distillery in at least 100 years,
and while this expression is barely three years old, I expect future
expressions to improve with age. The nose is light and fruity with notes
of green apples and pears. The taste starts off fruity, but develops a
spicy kick that fades to a slightly tart finish. The youth shows, but
again, this distillery has great potential for the future.
Ichiro's 4 of Spades Malt (Distilled at Hanyu Distillery and bottled by
Ichiro's Choice at 58.6% ABV, tasted 12/2010): This was distilled
in 2000 at Japan's Hanyu Distillery, and the nose is light and nutty
with hints of grass and straw, coconut, hazelnut, and butterscotch. The
taste is peppery, thick, and mouth-coating, and the initial spicy blast
fades to reveal a slight cherry cough syrup note, black licorice, and a
hint of menthol. The finish is aromatic and nose-clearing, but leaves a
syrupy note in the back of the mouth.
Isle of Skye 8 (Blended Scotch bottled at 43%, tasted 8/2009):
Ian MacLeod bottles this blend from a mix of Speyside and "Island"malts,
and that's clearly reflected in the nose. It has a coastal influence
with Talisker-like smokiness, along with heather and grassy notes. The
taste is smokier than the nose, and the peat influence shows itself
here, along with briny notes and a nutty touch of almonds and hazelnuts
that linger into the finish.
Jack Daniel's Tennessee Honey (Distillery bottling at 40% ABV,
tasted 3/2011): This whiskey liqueur combines Jack Daniel's with
honey, but you'd be hard-pressed to find the Jack. The nose is muted
with sweet honey, nectar, honey-glazed ham, and burnt leaves. The taste
is honey, orange, cayenne pepper, and the whisky disappears under the
sweetness and spice. the finish is light and subtle with raspberry jam
and hazelnut coffee. Good, but the Jack in it can sneak up on you
quickly.
Lagavulin 21 (Distillery bottling in 2007 at 56.5% ABV, tasted
11/2008): The nose is dry and slightly spicy with a touch of pepper
and light citrus notes. The taste is smooth and balanced with a nice
blend of pepper and citrus notes. The lemon doesn't overwhelm the black
pepper, and provides a nice contrast on the finish.
Laphroaig 1999 (Cooper's Choice bottling at 46% ABV, tasted
3/2010): This single-cask bottling was aged in a refill butt, and
while it's the same age as the distillery's 10-year-old bottling, there
are differences. The color is lighter, and the nose is dry and peaty
with hints of oak and straw. The taste starts off slightly tart, then
develops a spicy peatiness that builds well into the finish, which
remains smoky and intense with just a hint of lemon.
Loch Lomond Single Malt (Distillery bottling at 40% ABV, tasted
1/2011): The nose is floral with lavender, rose petals, and lilac
notes, as well as honey and vanilla. The taste is light and nutty with
subtle spices, peaches, pears, coconut, and vanilla. The finish is light
and aromatic with a honey sweetness and a touch of spices.
Mortlach 1990 (Cooper's Choice bottling at 46% ABV, tasted 8/2010):
The nose is soft cinnamon and oak with figs, almonds, and a touch of
Christmas cake. The taste is spicy, thick, and chewy, with notes of
cinnamon, brown sugar, and toffee. The finish is spicy and lingering
with a touch of toffee.
Spey Reserve 15 (Bottled by Harvie's of Edinburgh from an
undisclosed distillery at 40% ABV, tasted 8/2011): The nose has
notes of toffee, caramel, almonds, and tropical fruits (mango and
passion fruit), along with a touch of honey. The taste starts off spicy
with tropical fruit notes that come out as the spices fade, along with
touches of almonds and nutmeg. The finish is tart and muted, but lingers
well.
Speyburn Solera 25 (Distillery bottling at 46%, tasted 5/2009):
The nose is nice and malty with dried grasses and straw, and the taste
starts off sweet and syrupy at first with good honey notes and a hint of
almonds and hazelnut. However, there's a black pepper kick that takes
away all of the balance and leaves the dram slightly bitter. It's not a
bad dram, but it could have been much more.
Springbank 1999 (Bottled by Specialty Drinks/The Whisky Exchange at
53% ABV, tasted 6/2011): This single-cask bottling is part of the
Single Malts of Scotland Series at The Whisky Exchange, and the nose has
notes of dried fruits, ginger, a touch of brandy, and hints of honey and
licorice. The taste is beefy, with pungent pipe tobacco and leather at
first and a mouth-coating touch of cinnamon followed by a slight
bitterness. The finish is slightly bitter and leathery.
Teaninich 1973 Single Cask (Bottled by Berry Bros. & Rudd at 41.8%
ABV, tasted 6/2010): The nose is a nice mix of honey and lemon
zest, coconut and banana. The taste is tart and spicy with strong notes
of lemon and pepper. The pepper fades fast, but the lemon stays around
for the finish with a hint of green tea.
Very Old Barton (Distillery bottling at 43% ABV, tasted 10/2010):
Strong vanilla on the nose, along with hazelnut, dark chocolate,
caramel, and oak notes. The taste starts off with caramel and molasses
notes, followed by a peppery buildup that fades to reveal cola and
vanilla notes. The finish is smooth with honey and hazelnut notes.
82
Breizh Whisky (Distilled by
Distillerie Warenghem and bottled at 42% ABV, tasted 4/2011): This
French blend has a nose of honey, lemon, and hazelnut with a touch of
vanilla. The taste is tart and lemony with touches of furniture polish,
cinnamon, and graham cracker pie crust. The finish is long, tart, and
lemony. Very consistent, but dominated too much by one note.
Early Times 354 Bourbon (Distillery bottling at 40% ABV, tasted 5/2011):
This is the revival of Early Times Bourbon in the U.S., and will
eventually replace the Early Times Bourbon sold in export markets. The
nose is classic bourbon with caramel, oak, dark chocolate, vanilla, and
brown sugar notes. The taste starts off soft at first, but a muted
cinnamon spiciness builds up and lasts through the finish with vanilla
and oak undertones. The finish is spicy with a caramel note underneath,
but the overall impression is that it's a bit thin.
George Washington's Mount
Vernon Bourbon (Bottled by Mount Vernon at 60% ABV, tasted 7/2010):
This is a rare vatting of bourbons from most of America's largest
distillers to celebrate the restoration of Washington's distillery at
Mount Vernon. It's only sold at the Mount Vernon gift shop, and the nose
is classic vanilla, caramel, and oak. The taste is black pepper,
vanilla, oak, and honey, and the finish is honey and caramel. Lacks
overall balance, but remember that this was never intended to be a
mass-market product.
Glen Elgin 12 (Distillery
bottling at 43% ABV, tasted 1/2011): One of the rare official
bottlings of Glen Elgin, the nose has a touch of smoke with notes of
cinnamon, nutmeg, toasted oak, and subtle orange peel. The taste starts
off with an intense black pepper note, fading to reveal brown sugar and
caramel candy with a hint of lemon-lime tartness. The finish is short
and slightly spicy.
Grant's Ale Cask (Blended Scotch at
40%, tasted 3/2011): This version of Grant's is finished in beer
casks, and the nose has a malty and hoppy influence, with grass, straw,
coconut, vanilla, and hints of orange marmalade. The taste is malty with
citrus notes, lemon peel, and slightly creamy. The taste is tart, malty,
and long.
Karuizawa 1971 (Distillery bottling
for Number One Drinks Co. at 64.1% ABV, tasted 11/2008): The nose
has dried figs and raisins on top, with a hint of citrus undertones and
a touch of caramel candy. The citrus notes take over and dominate the
taste, with a lemon and lime tartness that tingles the tongue, but fades
to reveal a touch of caramel candy sweetness on the finish.
Kavalan Solist Sherry Cask (Distillery bottling at 58.4% ABV, tasted
2/2011):
Caramel, oak, dried figs and plums on the nose. Thick and spicy taste
with strong black pepper on top of a caramel syrup note at the start,
followed by cloying raisin and plum notes as the pepper fades. Finish is
short and disappears quickly.
Speyburn Bradan Orach (Distillery bottling at 40% ABV, tasted
6/2011): Bradan Orach is Gaelic for "golden salmon" and pays
tribute to the fishing along the River Spey. The nose is young and
fruity with fresh berries, soft spices, and honey. The taste is young
and fiery, but still has some complexity with cinnamon apples, honey,
banana, coconut, and a touch of allspice. The finish lingers nicely with
soft spices and a touch of fruit.
W.H. Harrison Indiana Bourbon (Distillery botling at 40% ABV, tasted
2/2011): While much of the corn for Kentucky's bourbons comes from
Indiana, this is billed as the first bourbon to be produced in Indiana
since Prohibition. The nose is spearmint with a touch of vanilla, and
the mintiness continues on the creamy taste with hints of brown sugar
and molasses underneath. The finish is short and minty.
White Owl (Distillery bottling at 40% ABV, tasted 1/2011): This
is a rare find, a "white whisky" aged in oak instead of being bottled
right after distillation. Highwood Distillers in Canada came up with a
way to filter the aged whisky through charcoal four times before
bottling, removing the color but leaving the taste. The nose is clean
and light with subtle rye and nutty notes. The taste has notes of rye
bread, hazelnut, cilantro, and spearmint. The finish is minty, clean,
and slightly nutty. This won't appeal to every whisky drinker, but is
worth trying at least once.
81
Balblair 1973 (Gordon & MacPhail
Private Collection 2006 bottling at 45% ABV, tasted 10/2008): Spicy
with a peppery kick, a hint of lemon, and a nice touch of toffee and
dark chocolate consistent with the nose. Smooth, long and sweet finish.
Bruichladdich 18 First Edition (Distillery bottling at 46% ABV, tasted
1/2011): Germany's Trockenbeerenauslese wines tend to be sweet and
fruity, and this Bruichladdich expression uses Opitz One TBA casks along
with ex-bourbon casks. As one might expect, there's a clash of cultures
here. The nose is rich with vanilla, nutmeg, hazelnut, brown sugar, and
fresh peanut butter cookies. The taste is tart and chewy, though, with
dry white grapes and a touch of vinaigrette that dies quickly. The
finish is magical...in that it disappears into thin air with a "poof".
Not enough balance from start to finish.
Glen Flagler (Blended Malt bottled by Inver House at 40% ABV, tasted
8/2010): It's not clean how much of this blended malt actually came
from the long-closed Glen Flagler distillery. The nose is grainy,
buttery, and light with a touch of allspice. The taste has a strong
licorice note on the tip of the tongue, and is malty and crisp. The
finish is licorice with a slightly tart touch.
Glenturret 12 (Distilled in 1992,
bottled by Signatory at 43%, tasted 10/2007): The nose is light and
grassy with notes of goldenrod and wildflowers The taste is spicy and
floral balanced well with a touch of black pepper, and leads to a smooth
and lingering finish.
Junior Johnson's Carolina Moonshine (Distillery bottling at 40% ABV,
tasted 2/2011): The NASCAR legend was equally famous in North
Carolina for his family's moonshine, and this comes as close to that
recipe as possible. Unlike most "shine", this is distilled from grains,
and the nose is crisp and clean with notes of boiled sweet corn and
vanilla. The taste is thick and chewy, reminiscent of corn on the cob
with pepper. The finish is smooth and lingering with a slight sweetness.
Very drinkable.
Yamazaki 1995 Owner's Cask (Distillery bottling for La Maison du
Whisky at 54.9% ABV): The ex-sherry cask gives this a rich nose
full of dried apples, Christmas cake, vanilla, orange peel, nutmeg, and
almonds. The taste is rich, smooth, and fruity with pears, peaches,
plums, cola, caramel, and dark chocolate. The finish is long with dark
chocolate, vanilla, and a hint of fruits.
80
Armorik 8 Single Cask (Distillery bottling for La Maison du Whisky
at 55% ABV, tasted 11/2010): The nose is white grapes, honey,
ginger and hazelnut with a slight grassiness. The taste is slightly
floral with a hint of rose petals leading to a spicy buildup of pepper
and cilantro, a slight red wine vinaigrette note and a hint of oak. The
finish is lingering with notes of vanilla and ginger.
Douglas XO (Blended Scotch whisky by Douglas Laing & Co. at 43% ABV,
tasted 8/2010): The nose is dry and grassy with sherry notes and a
hint of spearmint. The spearmint note dominates the taste, with hints of
sherry and lavender underneath. The finish is soft and minty. This
whisky is a bit too minty for me, but my wife loves it. Remember that
your tastes may be completely different from mine.
Longmorn 30 (Bottled by The Whisky Exchange for TWE Masterpieces at
58.1% ABV, tasted 11/2008): The nose is sweet with notes of honey,
figs, and raisins. The taste has a touch of pepper balanced by a hint of
honey. There's a lingering finish with a touch of molasses and figs.
79
Arkansas Lightning (Distillery bottling at 62.5% ABV, tasted 6/2011):
This is distilled from a corn and wheat mash, and aged just long enough
to qualify as whiskey. The nose is corn on the cob with a strong alcohol
burn and hints of brown sugar and raisins. The taste has an alcohol burn
at first, followed by a slight tartness and hints of raisins leading to
a clean finish.
Bowmore 1998 (Bottled by Queen of the Highlands as Kelting's Quarter
Cask Edition 21 at 53.9%, tasted 5/2010): There's no age statement
on this malt, which has a nose of smoke and vanilla with a slight
brininess and a hint of smoked herring. The taste is fiery and
young with an intense pepperiness that fades quickly to lingering
ashiness on the finish. Water smooths it out and adds notes of caramel
sweetness and brown sugar.
English Whisky Company "Chapter 4" (Distillery bottling at 46%,
tasted 1/2010): This technically isn't a whisky yet...it's an
18-month-old peated spirit that's a preview of the single malt whisky to
be released in mid-2010. The nose is peat and dried grass, while the
taste is thick and oily, syrupy-sweet with a touch of caramel candy,
peat, and creosote. The finish has a delayed spicy kick that lingers.
This spirit has great potential, but its youth shows in the lack of
overall balance.
Inchgower 26 (Bottled by Adelphi at 59.8% ABV, tasted 11/2009): The
nose is oak, old leather, and dry leaves, with a hint of dried apples
and pears. The taste is chewy and sweet, with green apples and
pears fading to reveal caramel candies and cola. The finish is slightly
sour, though.
Littlemill 1990 (Bottled by Signatory at 43% ABV, tasted 8/2009): This
Lowland malt has a very aromatic nose, with notes of green apples and
cinnamon and a bit of an alcohol burn. The taste is syrupy-thick and
spicy, with a strong peppery kick at first. Water tones down the spices
and reveals apple pie and nutmeg notes. The finish is dry and short, and
the dram lacks overall balance.
Roughstock Montana Whiskey (Distillery bottling at 45% ABV, tasted
11/2010): The score for this initial release is low, but Roughstock
shows promise for the future with more aging. It's made from 100%
Montana-grown barley, and carries no age statement, but is probably
around 2 years old. The nose is malty and fiery with notes of licorice,
vanilla, and toasted oak. The taste is young and fiery with notes of
chili powder and black pepper that fade to reveal caramel, vanilla, and
dark chocolate. The finish is spicy and slightly ashy.
78
Blend 285 (Blended Whisky produced by International Beverages and
bottled at 35% ABV, tasted 6/2011): This is a blend of locally
produced Thai whisky and peated malts from the Inver House distilleries
in Scotland, and sells a million cases each month in Thailand. The nose
is fuel oil, ginger, and dried flowers. The taste is ginger and curry
powder with honey underneath and reminds me a bit of cough syrup. The
finish has touches of smoke and spearmint. Surprisingly drinkable.
Craigellachie 8 "Frisky Whisky" (Bottled by Dram House at 60.3% ABV,
tasted 9/2011): The nose starts off nice with vanilla, creme
brulee, mild spices, and a hint of dry white wine. However, the taste is
tart and bitter with overripe orange and grapefruit notes and touches of
allspice underneath. The finish is sour and lingers far too long, overly
cloying and fruity. Needs a lot of water to make it drinkable...and
should have been bottled at 40% or 43% instead of cask strength.
77
Kirkland 18 (Distilled at Macallan, bottled by Costco at 40% ABV, tasted
1/2011): This is the infamous "Costco Macallan" available only at Costco
warehouse club stores in the U.S. after the chain acquired casks of
18-year-old Macallan from a blender. It's vaguely similar to the
official Macallan 18, with a nose of dried fruits, sweet oak, nutmeg,
and brown sugar. The taste is peppery, yet still sweet with a caramel
note and touches of orange peel and brandy that come out as the spices
die down. The finish is tart, brandy-like and fades quickly. It costs
about a third of the price of the Macallan 18, and is about a third as
good.
76
Celtique Connexion DM Highland
Monbazillac (Bottled by Celtic Whisky Compagnie at 46%, tasted 2/2010):
This is a unique whisky, starting out at an undisclosed Highland
distillery before it was purchased by Jean Donnay, who took it to
France's Brittany coast and transferrered it to a Monbazillac wine cask
for final maturation. The nose is warm and buttery with notes of
raisins, plums, and a hint of figs. The taste is spicy and tart with a
bit of lemon to go along with the cinnamon spice. The finish is tart and
lingering.
Wiser's 150th Anniversary Red Letter
(Distillery bottling at 45% ABV, tasted 10/2007): This
release celebrates the 150th anniversary of Wiser's, and the nose is
classic Canadian rye. The taste is rye bread with a touch of honey and
mint, but the finish is short.
75
Cragganmore Distiller's Edition 2008 (Distillery bottling at 40%,
tasted 4/18/2010): The nose is light and dry with hints of spices
and dried fruits. The taste has overly strong white wine notes, along
with a citrusy tartness that is sharp and astringent. Those notes
continue on the finish, and make it hard to tell whether this is a wine
or a whisky.
Old Crow Reserve (Distillery bottling at 43% ABV, tasted 3/1/2010):
This is Jim Beam's attempt to bring more cachet to the venerable Old
Crow bourbon brand, with 4 years in cask instead of the regular
version's 3. The nose has subtle spices and notes of vanilla, while the
taste adds in hints of oak, black pepper, vanilla, caramel, and cola.
The peppery notes linger on the slightly bitter finish. This bourbon is
still young and somewhat fiery...I'd like to try it aged for another
year or two.
Seagram's 7 Crown Dark Honey (Bottled by Diageo at 35.5% ABV, tasted
8/2010): For the record, I'm not a fan of whisky liqueurs. The nose
is herbal, citrusy, and sweet with a hint of cherries. The taste is
sweet and cloying with strong honey and orange notes, and the finish is
orange juice and honey.
74
Carsebridge 42 (Distilled in 1960,
bottled by Chieftain's Choice at 41.6% ABV, tasted 11/2008): This
single grain whisky has a sweet nose with figs, raisins and a hint of
caramel candy. The taste is fig cookies and frosted lemon loaf with a
slightly tart finish.
72
Stewart's Cream of the Barley (Blended Scotch circa 1970 at 42.8%
ABV, tasted 12/2010): This 1970's-era blend has a beefy nose with
light spices and touches of cocoa, brandy, and vinegar. The taste is
peppery and tart with a lemony note, and the finish is very short.
Tullibardine Coume del Mas Banyuls Finish (Distillery bottling at
46% ABV, tasted 9/2011): I'm sure that someone has bottled a good
Banyuls cask-finished whisky at one point, but this isn't it. The nose
is sour, bitter, and almost musty. The taste is bitter with turpentine,
linseed oil, pepper and overripe fruit. The finish is sour and long.
65
Natu Nobilis (Blended whisky by Pernod Ricard at 39% ABV, tasted
11/2010): This is sold in Brazil, and is a blend of Scotch malts
and locally produced whisky. The nose isn't bad, with notes of maple
syrup, honey, and a slight nuttiness. However, the taste is thin and
watery with a hint of cinnamon that takes forever to build and then
burns through the finish. It's a one-dimensional whisky with an overall
lack of balance.